Given the sheer amount of tourism in the Caribbean, it can feel a bit like Disneyland sometimes. In an effort to find an escape from the most visited areas, I spent a period of time traveling with a friend who grew up in the region. I handed over control of the itinerary under the condition that I be shown some of the lesser known islands. What I found was a level of quiet that I didn’t know existed in the Caribbean, and (with the exception of Anguilla) ecotourism that demanded a strong will and a lot of physical exertion.
Anguilla will always remain one of my favorite islands. This isn’t the typical offshore destination. It’s not overflowing with activities, clubs, resorts, and tourists. Instead, it’s populated by laid back and ever-friendly locals who take pride in their island and the peace and quiet it offers. West Shoal Bay has one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen, with vibrant azure waters and sugar-white sand. Meads Bay comes in a close second, with the only downside being a few small waves on what would otherwise be perfectly calm waters. When I marveled to my tour guide friend about the fact Anguilla wasn’t crowded, I was informed that it never is. Between the lack of tourists, the restaurants with the best food I’ve ever had in the Caribbean (especially Veya), and the relaxed pace, I didn’t want to leave Anguilla.
Our next stop was the island of Saba, just a stone’s throw away from St. Maarten and St. Barts, and what my friend referred to as the “Unspoiled Queen” of the Caribbean. Saba is similar to Anguilla in that it offers peace and quiet from the hustle and bustle of other nearby islands. (Perhaps this is owed to the fact that only 25,000 people per year visit Saba). The food was excellent and the beaches were superb – this is still the Caribbean after all.
However the absolute highlight of our time here was Mount Scenery, the heaping 3,000-foot tall peak looming over the island. The path took us through lush green rainforest and a misty cloud cover; the experience of exiting the clouds and reaching the summit was like reaching another world. The sweeping views of Saba and the oceans beyond were of a surreal magnificence. Although I wanted to remain longer at the summit, I was motivated to make the trek back down by the ocean: snorkeling was waiting. Although Saba is somewhat beach-less, I had no problem snorkeling in Wells Bay, and it was just as amazing as the hike up Mount Scenery. The amount of diverse marine life was exceptional, and I truly felt that I was viewing a world gone by, glimpsing back to a time before over-diving caused so many species to disappear.
Our next stop was Dominica, which my friend-turned-travel-guide called “The Nature Isle of the Caribbean.” The reason for this nickname was apparent as soon as we arrived on the island. Tropical flowers were in bloom at every turn and mountainous rainforests dominated the horizon. I had no idea that there were so many variations of green until I visited the Papillote Tropical Gardens. The park is filled with endless types of tropical flowers that scream out in technicolor hues, from electric blue to blazing red and shocking fuchsia. The surrounding calls of frogs and birds was equally impressive, as were the waterfalls, butterflies, and jade vines. Other natural wonders that completely blew me away were Middleham Falls and Titou Gorge; after a lengthy hike through the gorge, swimming from the waterfall to the caves was a spectacular experience.
Perhaps my favorite of all of Dominica, however, was the strenuous journey to the island’s most superb natural wonder, Boiling Lake. The distance is only 8 miles, but it took us several exhausting hours to reach our destination, thanks to the lofty elevation gains. It was dirty, it was muddy, and it was tough going, but arriving at the vaporous bubbling waters of the world’s second-largest hot spring was an almost surreal experience. If I learned anything from these trips to the lesser visited best Caribbean islands, it’s that great resorts and tourist meccas don’t always make your trip. Sometimes the true highlights of paradise come from pursuing adventure away from the crowds.
By Becky
Photo 1: NixBC, Photo 2: Carmen Eckard, Photo 3: David Pedler
